In that akward stage inbetween seasons most designers prefer to throw a small show or viewing before the Fall (pre-fall collection) and Spring shows (Resort collection). These shows are usually allot more scaled back (with the exception of Chanel's tacky extravaganzas) and meant to either fill racks at Barneys and keep clients interested or to give a peek of their vision for the upcoming season. Seeing as though Fall 2010 fashion week(s) is just around the corner it was time for the pre-fall shows. Sadly, some of my favorite avante-garde designers like Comme and Rodarte do not show in the inbetween due to their lengthy craftsmanship. Otherwise, I usually do not respond well to these shows, seeing as though designers find it a time to be either boring and safe or really tacky and vegas-y. Although, this time around it was a little different. I chose these five collections as my favorite because all five designers have different views and techniques that are all equally beautiful in my opinion. Balenciaga, Techy and futuristic. Proenza, cool and urban. Calvin, stark and extremely minimalist. Missoni, warm and European. And Lanvin, the usual choice for an urban goddess. All five still managing to have a pure vision of the fashion future.
Here are my top 5 pre-fall collections with brief overview.
For their pre-fall collection Missoni went for that knockout signature that has kept them at the top season after season. Layers and layers of beautiful ribbed knits and wool coats cocooned model's bodies as their skinny limbs were topped with beautiful caps and knitted tights. The most delicious part of the collection was the palette of beautiful honey, dark green and rainy greys. These clothes embody the soul warmth that one needs to last the dark days of the winter . To no doubt be seen on the most stylish and tasteful women come fall.
Alber Elbaz, master of desire, has done it again. All of his creations are for that urban goddess, whether she be office savvy or stomping ground to a club downtown. Every woman, no matter who, is on their knees for the perfect Lanvin piece of their liking. This collection was no exception, based around a parisian woman dressed in all leopard. The girl wearing these clothes walks around in cafes and bars flirting and smoking with the see and be seen. There is no doubt these pieces will be fluent with the same in the American fashion scene. Every Lanvin girl will find a way in their checkbooks to bring one of these lovely pieces into their wardrobe next fall, and no doubt for the rest of their lives.
I chose this collection purely because of it's strict german minimalist vibe. It resembles everything old Jil Sander was. The silhouette is not fed up with accessories but still is striking without them. Silhouettes were pure black suits and light coral dresses to cocoon cahmere wool coats and light gauze gowns. Heavenly and pure. With Calvin it is always how it should be; quality, never quantity.
This collection is fabulous, cool, and very young without looking gaudy, as Jack and Lorenzo always somehow manage to achieve. It is always many references and inspirations for these kids, yet the result is never all over the place. But exactly the opposite. Textiles were more beautiful then they ever were and silhouettes were extremely cool. It could come off almost preppy if was not for the models nonchalent side bang and fierce expression that made it slightly hipster. collars were tights, blazers hung loosely over skirts and dresses were belted and textured. To no doubt be seen all over the big city, except this time maybe not just in a smokey night club. So refreshing.
Balenciaga's showing was full of color and the usual fabulous 'tear the clothes off the model and run' type of ensembles. The colors were bold and fresh: green, red and neon yellow. Pieces ranged anywhere from psychedelic embelished sweaters and linear jackets to draped harem half skinny jeans and elegant dresses. Models walked out with beautiful wooden glass footwear, their long legs covered with graphic neon opaque tights, to be sold next fall for a very economy friendly un-Balenciaga $100 price-tag. Get ready, you might have to bitch slap Anna Wintour to get a hand on your favorite Balenciaga treasure.
(All photos courtesy of Style.com)